Kitza rules the waves

Back in the “good old days”, when nothing worked, we would crowd around the HF radio set and strain to make out what the camp managers were reporting every evening.  It was often tough to understand everything and memorably, we once sent a pair of blue jeans to Middle Varzuga instead of the requested aubergines.

Now however, we have mobile signal in the three camps that we are running and whilst it is less romantic, it has to be said that it is much more efficient.  This was amply demonstrated last night when Ollie rang in from Kitza to report on their first full day of fishing for the season.

Craig P, in the bright sunshine, at 8am this morning

There was no mistaking the excitement in his voice and there was fortunately no time restriction on his reporting.  A good job as it turned out as they had a superb day.  93 fish were recorded to the 10 rods with some fantastic individual scores.  John M was the top rod with 18 fish, Craig C had 14, Paul P 11 and father and son team of Geoff and Findlay F finished with 19 between them.

The new dining and sitting room at Kitza - it probably looks a bit less smart this morning

Geoff and Findlay volunteered to go upstream and caught fish all the way up to Beaver Pit but the majority of the fish were landed from First Island down – an indication that the run is just beginning over there.

Ollie probably wishes we were back to radios this morning as his voice very obviously betrayed that they had celebrated in some style.

Sergei with one of Boo V's fish

Middle Varzuga also had a good day with a returning team of some very experienced rods.  72 fish were put in the book by supper.  One of our regular rods had 14 of those whilst Keith B had a lovely fish of around 15lbs amongst the 9 he landed.

Joan G on Bear Island

Here at Lower we had many firsts.  Colin D landed his first ever salmon, one of 3 he had during the day, Jeremy and Boo V landed their first Russian fish,  finishing with 13 between them and we had our first fish of the season on a hitched fly, landed by Ken B.  We also had Mark’s birthday to celebrate and a delicious chocolate cake washed down with the obligatory vodka was a good way to end the day.

Our starter last night - really very good

We ended with 28 fish between us which was a good start in soaring temperatures and 3 rods have been out this morning and all landed fish from the Heli pool so we look set fair for the day.  Bill Drury and I are going over to Umba today to have a good look around and I will report more tomorrow.

Charlie White

Forecasting

Saturday changeovers are always the busiest day of the week and yesterday was no exception.  We left here in glorious sunshine and arrived in Murmansk to be greeted with temperatures of 26 degrees and it seemed as if the heatwave was here to stay.

Terry and Tony C on Clark's

After saying goodbyes to the departing rods, it was not long before we got the call from the immigration officers to let us know that our new clients were coming in.   It is always a good sight to see everyone coming through the customs doors and catch up with people who have been coming here for years and also to see some new faces.

Playing another on Clark's

The talk was of the unseasonably warm weather and jokingly I said that, not to worry, the blog prediction was for the weather to change given that we had new clients coming.   Two hours later we arrived to the camps in pouring rain and a really cold wind!

It seemed to herald the longed for change but sadly it was fairly short lived and this morning things are back to normal with soaring temperatures and blue skies.  The prescience of the blog, lauded last night, has now been given short shrift.

Tim T on Duck

On speaking to the departing rods it was clear that their week had been full of fun and action.  Middle Varzuga finished on 342 fish for the 10 rods and Lower recorded 253 for initially 10 rods and then we dropped to 9 as Yuri had to leave.

It was a great week with lots of laughs and it was sad to see them go but as ever, things move apace up here and it was not long before new rods, new waders and seemingly millions of flies were being scrutinised, weighed in hands and held up to the light.

Jeremy, Boo and Sergei in the bright sunshine this morning

Stephen T was not too fussed about all of that and simply went out and caught 3 fish before dinner whilst Craig P has landed 2 fish on his new 18ft, beast of a rod before breakfast so we are looking in good shape for the week ahead.

Over at Kitza the best news was that the first fish of the year was landed by Findlay F who is over here for his 21st birthday present.  A great way to christen the season and they went on to land 8 fish before Fiona called them in to dinner.

More tomorrow when no doubt we will have lived through all four seasons in one day.

Charlie White

Last day of the week

I am not sure how it works in a metaphysical sense but somehow the time here seems to race by and yet, it feels as if we have been here for ages.   Regardless, after a blisteringly hot week we are now into our final day and the team here are determined to make the most it.

The hot weather is beginning to affect some...

Yesterday saw a slight shift in the fortunes of the two camps that we are currently running and it was Middle Varzuga that definitely came out on top.  The 10 rods finished with 68 fish recorded and again it was Duncan and Kevin F who were leading the way – they landed 15 and 13 by the close of play which, unlike Headingly, was not ever going to be because of rain.

Again, the fish were running through the middle of the river and so those in boats or those that were comfortable wading and casting a good distance were the ones most likely to be successful.

Not the best photo but a lovely fish

Here at Lower we “picked away” to finish on 27 for the day.  Fish were landed in all of our beats but no one really had a bonanza.  The highlight of the day was undoubtedly a two to three year old bear that decided to treat us to a long viewing at lunch as it grubbed around for berries on the other side of the river.  Everyone took photos but the river there is sufficiently wide that all we can see from the millions of pictures is a brown blob that could well be a rock so they are not much good for the blog.

Jonathan B on Larder

It was yet another very hot day with an increasingly warm upstream wind and today offers more of the same.  It is amazing to consider that we have had a week where most people would tell you that the conditions were hopeless for salmon fishing and yet we have so far landed over 500 fish in 5 days of fishing.

The freshest sashimi you are likely to find - delicious last night

There will not be a blog tomorrow as we will leave here at around 7am to fly to Murmansk for the changeover and Saturday is always a busy day.  Normally the changeover day seems to herald a change in the conditions so no doubt all of next week we will be bemoaning how cold, wet and miserable the weather is, although that seems some way off at the moment.

Charlie White

Dropping water

As we contemplated another bright, cloudless day yesterday morning, thoughts turned to the river levels. The river is dropping around 6 inches per day which is a lot given its width.

Combined with a rising water temperature (it is now hovering around 10 degrees) we took off the last remaining sink tips and switched to intermediates and in some cases to straight floaters.  We are now fishing with ½ inch tubes as the norm.

Yuri D with a cracker from Moscoi

Here at Lower we have now moved the boats to their “summer mooring” which is slightly further downstream by the heli pad, to enable easier access and departure without the dreaded sound of engines clunking rocks.

None of which meant any difference to the fishing and in fact we saw more fish moving yesterday than we probably have so far this season.  They are not “gimme” fish and the longer casters are those being most rewarded.

Robin M on the jumble of rocks that is Bear Island

Yuri D definitely counts in that category and he had 12 fish for his day which was sadly his last as he had to fly back to Moscow today.  Whilst we have some lovely pictures from yesterday there were numerous other good fish landed and Peter C-G was broken on a really decent fish having played it for 20 minutes.

Those scores counted towards a total of 40 fish here at Lower and it was a happy but tired team last night.

Ken L with one from the boat

At Middle they had a better day.  54 were put in the book with the brothers Duncan and Kevin F doing the most damage.  They had a fantastic day and landed 15 and 11 fish respectively with one of Duncan’s fish being a cracking 15lber.

East Generator was the most productive pool and again, Terry reported lots of fish being seen over all of the beats.

Boats at the lunch spot

Much as I would like to report different, it is another bright day today but we had 3 early morning risers going out before breakfast and all of them have landed fish before coming into their bacon and eggs so we look set for another good day.

Charlie White

P.S. If you are flying out tomorrow, please look out for an email today from Lynsey Mair which will explain the new procedures in Murmansk – they love a new procedure..!

Lost fish

Yesterday was yet another day of bright skies, a strong upstream wind and plenty of action across both beats.  However, between us we contrived to lose a vast amount of fish which was really the feature of the day.

Neil C on Beach

Our final total at supper was 49 fish, a good score but when one rod told me he had lost 12 fish and another remarked that he could beat that, I realised that the scores in the book might not fully reflect the action we collectively had.

Jonathan B was our star performer with 9 fish from the Mall and Bear Island but apart from that everyone chipped in fairly equally.

Feoder with one of David H's fish

At Middle, the team of 10 rods finished with 33 salmon landed.  Not bad really but there is a feeling that despite the low water and the unusually warm start to the season, the fish are running as per the calendar rather than on conditions and there probably is not quite the head of fish up there yet.

Graeme Y on Bear Island

That looks likely to change as Bill Drury decided to see what he could do with a rod in his hand and landed 5 within 40 minutes from Green Bank last night (we don’t count fish caught by staff so they are not included in the above records) which led him to declare that the run was really starting in earnest.

An impressive double rainbow over the heli last night

A big storm rolled in during supper which dumped a good amount of rain in a short space of time but that was short lived and this morning we awoke to another very sunny day.  That has not stopped Ken L going out before breakfast and landing 4 fish from the Heli pool, as well as a very good sea trout, so we hope we have started the day as we mean to go on.

Charlie White

A busy day

Yesterday was busy day with a lot of traveling around.  After watching our rods leave for their morning session, a few of us flew to Kitza to see how the setup of that camp was progressing.  Very well was the outcome with the new dining and sitting room looking really smart and it will be a big boost to this wonderful camp.

The new lodge at Kitza

The water levels over there are holding up really well which is not unusual with the two big Kitza lakes providing a steady and reliable source.

Looking upstream at Kitza - it looks pretty much perfect

Whilst flying over there it was interesting to get an aerial view of our beat here at Lower and I am not sure that I have seen Moscoi Island so obviously out of the water by the 16th of May before.

Moscoi Island clearly visible in the bottom left of the picture

After dropping off various supplies at Kitza, our pilots announced that we were to go on a rescue mission.  It transpired that in late April, one of our Russian friends had managed to ditch a skidoo into a river which was being hidden by a snow drift.  Completely stuck they had to walk out and leave the skidoo where it was.  The tundra is a big and featureless place but after 30 minutes of flying roughly where they thought it was, we spotted it and tried to land on the boggy marsh.  After a few attempts we hovered near the skidoo, jumped out (which made us all very wet) and hauled it into the back of the helicopter.  Riding a skidoo, inside a helicopter, is not something I have done before and I was not going to miss the opportunity!

Just another day in the office

After which I went up to Middle Varzuga for dinner to find a very happy team.  It had been a slightly slower day than it had been the day before and they finished with 43 salmon to their 10 rods.  Mark G, on his first trip here, landed 9 of those and had a smile a mile wide.

Jonathan B with a lovely fish from Moscoi

Donna cooked us a delicious supper and we got back to Lower just after midnight following a stunning drive back in the bright sunshine.

Given all of that I was hardly here yesterday but gather from Bill that it was a similar story to Middle in that it was a good day but not quite as productive as before.  47 fish are recorded in the book with Graeme, Yuri and Ken being the top rods.  Peter C-G had a cracking fish of around 15lbs from Bear Corner and the lower beats are still the most productive which indicates a building run of fish which is as we would expect.

Ken L on Heli

This morning offers no change in the weather with cloudless skies and high temperatures.  We are still fishing quite heavy sink tips but if this keeps up it will not be long before we start to move up the water column and decrease the fly sizes.

Charlie White

A great day

Yesterday pretty much summed up why we look forward to coming back to the Varzuga every year.

Bright skies, enthusiastic fishermen, keen guides and numerous fish.  Our first full day proved that everyone had got rid of their rustiness and people fished well from the off.

Jonathan B with one from Bear Island

Here at Lower we finished with 68 fish put in the book but I am not sure I have ever seen a day where we lost so may fish either.  These were not just knocks and bumps but fish that were fully on and then simply were not.  Proximity to the sea and fish with soft mouths will be one reason but luck will be another.

Graeme Y on Moscoi Island

Graeme Y had a fantastic day and landed 12 but Yuri D had a superb session on Moscoi and Beach in the afternoon where he grassed a further 12 fish to take his daily tally to 18.

At Middle they also had a very strong start to their week.  Duncan F and Kevin F were the first to really find the fish and they had 20 between them for their morning session on Fortress - not bad for two people who haven’t fished the river before.

The definition of happiness?

Simon R, who knows the river well, was not going to waste his first opportunity of the year to fish Clarkes and he made the most of it in taking 10 for his afternoon session.

A total of 74 fish to the 10 rods was a top result for the opening day.

A happy team at Lower last night

We are planning to fly over to Kitza this morning to take some new boats and a new generator before opening up the camp in earnest and I hope to bring you pictures of the new dining room and kitchen tomorrow.

It is really very bright this morning and beginning to warm up but we hope for more of the same on the fishing front as the water temperature is holding steady at 8 degrees and there appears to be plenty of fish around.

Charlie White

A good start

It is great to be back.  We look forward to the season starting as much as anyone else and it is always fun to kick the trip off in Helsinki with a few beers and mounting excitement.

Boarding the new Titan jet - very comfortable, quiet and fast

We got to Murmansk in blazing sunshine and with just two camps open it took very little time to get through immigration and customs.  By 3:30 we were all in camp after the long heli ride; during which we did not see much snow but did notice that most of the lakes on the tundra were still frozen.

One of the many frozen lakes we flew over yesterday

Everyone was keen to get going but with a strong upstream wind it was not the easiest of starts and for most people it was simply a chance to get on the river again and iron out any rustiness.

Ken L with his first fish of the season

Graeme Y however has clearly been practising at home as he made the whole thing look very simple. 5 fish before we sat down to dinner and 1 afterwards was a great start to his week and showed everyone the way.

Neil C, tackling up moments after the heli got to Lower

At Middle it was a similar story with the team raring to go and they landed 10 fish before Donna called them in.  Duncan F had 3 of those from Lower Generator and Simon R was up before breakfast this morning to land 1 from the same place.

The river is low for this time of the year and the water temperature is about 8 degrees so we are fishing sink tips and on occasion just intermediates with ½ inch tubes.

Mike H and Feorder, fishing together for the umpteenth time

It remains very bright this morning and I could have made a lot of money out of sun cream sales as none of us were expecting it to be this warm but there is no doubt that the levels of anticipation at breakfast demonstrated just how good it is to be back.

Charlie White

Final day before our first clients arrive

The countdown now starts in earnest as we tidy the last remaining things before welcoming our first guests of the season.

Yesterday, Terry and Donna had a really good day setting up the camp at Middle.  Every year this gets slightly easier as the continuity in the Russian staff starts to pay dividends.  The guides had been up there since Tuesday and the camp looks in really good shape.

Vova, back at Middle for another season

Big Misha is there this year which we are delighted with as he has not been in the best of health and all of the other guides are there except Anton who has gone to join the military.

Looking down Generator Pool yesterday afternoon

We have been lucky this year as the weather has been perfect for setting up the programme.  Whilst we can cope with any set of circumstance, there is no denying that getting boats in the water, fixing engines, airing linen and generally sprucing the place up after the long winter, is far easier when you can get outside without getting soaked.

Karai enjoying the sun - he seems immune to the ageing process

Not that I expect anyone to believe us but we were too busy to go fishing yesterday.  However, one of my jobs today is to go down to the lunch spot here at Lower to take the tables and chairs for our al fresco picnics which we all enjoy every day.  Much as I will have things to do, I am definitely taking the rod.

Checking one of the boats in front of the dining room

The river and camp look in great order and we are looking forward to getting everyone on the water and enjoying what this place can offer.

More on Sunday when we will hope to be reporting bumper catches.

Bill Drury

Setting up going well

In our second day of setting up the camps things really started to come together. It takes a bit of time to move all the kit and supplies, this is done by boat and with the river clear of ice this year we have been able to crack on well. All the boxes and bags have to be lugged down to the boats from the village, moved to base camp and sorted out, then distributed to the various camps – it takes time, but with an experienced team here we are moving on ‘apace.



Glenn at work in Lower Camp

 The weather was pretty mild yesterday, sun and cloud, but really quite chilly in the wind this morning and Donna and Terry wrapped up warm for the 40 minute boat run up to Middle Camp. For those coming up to Varzuga the forecast we use is the Umba one, about 100 km west of here. It is not always spot on! – but at the least it gives an indication of trends. https://www.wunderground.com/cgi-bin/findweather/hdfForecast?query=umba As always this far North please be prepared for really changeable weather.

Terry and Donna setting off for Middle Camp this morning

The river has dropped a couple of inches over the past 48 hours, a bit lower than we would normally expect in the first week, but this is good news for those coming out early. The fish are here and I popped out last night for 30 minutes or so and lost a couple before landing a real beauty of a silver, deep shouldered springer.

The first of many Spring Salmon to come

I hope Terry will get some photos of Middle today and if so I’ll post them tomorrow.

Bill Drury

Supplies

We know when we come out to the set up week that it will be hard work but also great fun catching up with our friends in camp and this year is no different.

Taking supplies out of the new sklad

It has been made easier by not having to struggle through snow but equally certain things in the village have made it slightly harder than we would expect.

There is a fairly fixed routine as to how we go about setting up the various lodges and it involves months of planning in advance.  We send all of the items that we cannot source in Russia up to Murmansk and then ship down huge amounts of dry goods, wine, fridges, chairs etc etc from Murmansk to Varzuga village via huge trucks.  This is then stored in a vast storage shed (sklad) that houses everything that the village needs and we finally take out our kit under the watchful eye of Marina, the sklad overseer.

Taking supplies from the village to Lower Varzuga

This year we had a shock when we came to the sklad to reclaim our goods and the picture below shows the devastation but not the extent of the size of the building before it burned down.

The sklad after a huge fire

Whilst this has been horrendous for the village (years of supplies that have been hoarded have been lost) we were fortunate in that the trucks had not set off from Murmansk by the time it had burned down.  This means that our advanced purchases are all intact but the reserves from the village have been severely depleted.  As ever in Russia, they are at their best in a crisis and the whole community is now working to find out what has been lost and where they can source replacements.  It is extraordinary to see everyone pulling together and making the best of what they can.

Newly racked supplies - amazing how fast they have recovered

As a result, it seemed a bit insensitive to fish very much when there was so much work to do but Terry had a crack at the end of the day down by the boats for half an hour.  He hooked one but lost it, largely I think because he was too worried about looking at the camera!

In terms of the important things for those of you coming soon, the weather remains warm although it is overcast now and the water temperature is 7 degrees.

Terry about to lose a fish

The water level is dropping as we would expect and conditions look set fare.

More tomorrow after another day of unpacking, sorting and trying to find time to have a fish.

Bill Drury

Welcome to the 25th year on the Varzuga

Welcome back to the Varzuga blog!  This year marks our 25th season on the river and we hope it will be a vintage one.

After a relatively easy bus journey down, we are now here on the river.  “We” is myself, Maryke (our cook at Lower), Terry and Donna (manager and cook at Middle), Ollie (manager at Kitza) and Glenn, our brilliant mechanic.

Unloading supplies at Sobacci Rapids

We got to the village around lunchtime yesterday to be greeted by Misha and Feoder who so many of you will have met in the years gone past.

They told us that the river had begun to break on the 28th April and that it took three or four days to fully clear out which is as we would expect.  Apparently they had much more snow than usual during the winter and beyond the tree line there is a lot of snow still waiting to melt.

Boats in the water and ready to go

Having said that, it has been a very warm week and it continues to be – it feels bizarre to be opening up the camp in shirt sleeves when we are used to digging paths out of the snow in order to get to the lodge.

The river is relatively low for this time of the year but we all know that predicting weather patterns, rainfall and almost anything else up here is a fool’s errand so we will see how it all unfolds.

Glenn, Misha and Nikolai sorting through the supplies

It was Victory Day in Russia yesterday so we probably were not as productive as we might have been but it was a great opportunity to catch up with everyone and the real work starts today.

I will keep you updated throughout the week and I might even manage a cheeky cast today – it looks perfect.

Bill Drury